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Pastrami vs. Corned Beef, Italian Beef vs. The World: The Sandwich Fights That Made America Delicious

M&M Deli
Pastrami vs. Corned Beef, Italian Beef vs. The World: The Sandwich Fights That Made America Delicious

Photo: Andy Li, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Walk into almost any deli in this country and you'll find two things hanging on the wall: a menu and an opinion. Maybe it's a faded photo of the original owner, maybe it's a hand-lettered sign declaring that their Reuben is "the real deal." Either way, somebody behind that counter is ready to defend their sandwich choices like they're defending family honor — because honestly, they kind of are.

America's great sandwich rivalries didn't start in food magazines or on TV cooking competitions. They started at lunch counters, corner delis, and neighborhood butcher shops where people argued loudly and ate loudly and came back the next day to do it all over again. These fights — over what meat belongs on what bread, what condiment is acceptable, and which city actually invented what — have shaped the way entire regions think about food and community.

So let's get into it.

The One That Started a Thousand Arguments: Pastrami vs. Corned Beef

If you've ever walked into a Jewish deli and hesitated at the counter, you already know this feeling. Pastrami or corned beef? It sounds simple. It is not simple.

Both cuts come from the same part of the cow — the brisket — but that's roughly where the similarities end. Corned beef is cured in a salt brine, cooked low and slow until it's tender and a little pink, with a clean, salty flavor that plays well with mustard and rye. Pastrami takes that same cut, adds a peppery, garlicky spice rub, and then smokes it before steaming. The result is something deeper, smokier, with a crust that clings to every bite.

New Yorkers will tell you pastrami is the superior choice and point to Katz's Delicatessen on the Lower East Side as Exhibit A. Chicagoans will push back and remind you that corned beef has its own proud history in the Midwest, particularly in the city's Irish and Jewish neighborhoods where the two cultures shared butcher shops and, eventually, recipes. Neither side is wrong. That's what makes the argument so good.

The real takeaway? Both sandwiches exist because immigrant communities brought their curing and smoking traditions to American cities and adapted them to what was available. The rivalry is, at its core, a story about who got here first and who made the neighborhood their own.

Chicago Doesn't Want to Hear Your Opinion About Italian Beef

If you're not from Chicago, you might think an Italian beef sandwich is just a roast beef sandwich with some peppers on top. Please do not say this out loud in Chicago.

The Italian beef — thinly sliced, heavily seasoned beef, slow-roasted and served on a long Italian roll that gets dipped (or dunked, or dragged) through the cooking juices — is a religion in that city. It was born in the 1930s, largely credited to Italian immigrant families on the city's Near West Side who figured out how to stretch a tough cut of beef into something extraordinary by slicing it paper thin and bathing it in garlicky, herby jus.

The argument that still divides Chicagoans isn't Italian beef versus anything else — it's how you order it. Wet or dry? Sweet peppers or hot giardiniera? Combo (with an Italian sausage tucked in)? These aren't just preferences. They're personality tests. Ask someone how they take their beef and you'll learn more about them than you would in an hour of small talk.

Now compare that to the Italian sub — the cold, stacked, oil-and-vinegar-dressed hero that rules delis from New Jersey to Rhode Island. Both claim Italian heritage. Both involve cured meats and bread and a lot of strong feelings. But they are completely different sandwiches built for completely different purposes, and each region will look you dead in the eye and tell you theirs is the authentic one.

Pork Roll: New Jersey's Sandwich Chip on Its Shoulder

Ask someone from Central or South Jersey what they want for breakfast and there's a good chance the answer involves pork roll. Ask someone from North Jersey the same question and they might call it Taylor Ham. Ask someone from literally anywhere else in the country and they'll stare at you blankly.

Pork roll — a processed, cured pork product that comes in a cylindrical roll, gets sliced and pan-fried until the edges curl up into little cups — is one of the most fiercely defended regional foods in the United States. It's been around since 1856, invented by John Taylor of Trenton, which is exactly why North Jersey calls it Taylor Ham. South Jersey insists on "pork roll" because that's the generic name on the packaging after a trademark dispute. The name war has been going on for over a century and shows absolutely no signs of stopping.

The sandwich itself — pork roll, egg, and cheese on a hard roll — is a New Jersey diner staple that tastes like something no other state quite manages to replicate. Part of it is the product itself. Part of it is the hard roll, which has a specific chew and crust that's tied to the local water supply in ways that bakers will passionately explain to you if you give them an opening. The point is, this is a sandwich that only fully exists in one place, and that specificity is exactly what makes people love it so fiercely.

Why These Fights Actually Matter

It would be easy to look at all this and say: they're just sandwiches. People need to relax.

But here's the thing — the arguing is part of the eating. When someone from Philadelphia tells you their cheesesteak is better than anything you'll find in any other city, they're not just talking about the beef. They're talking about Pat's versus Geno's, about which corner they grew up near, about their dad's order and their grandmother's opinion and the specific smell of a particular shop on a cold afternoon. The sandwich carries all of that.

Regional food rivalries create community because they give people something specific to belong to. They're a shorthand for identity — a way of saying I'm from here without having to explain everything that means. And deli owners, the good ones, understand this instinctively. They're not just selling lunch. They're maintaining a tradition that their neighborhood has decided matters.

At M&M Deli, we think about this a lot. The best thing about running a neighborhood spot is watching people argue about the menu with the same energy they'd bring to an argument about anything else they care about. That's not a problem. That's the whole point.

So the next time you find yourself in a heated debate about whether mustard or mayo belongs on a pastrami sandwich, just know: you're participating in a tradition that goes back generations. You're doing your part to keep the culture alive.

Now order something and stop holding up the line.

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